Who is Toby Roberts? The first British male climber to qualify for the Olympics

Prime-time vlogger, F1 lover and teenage climber extraordinaire Toby Roberts is Britain's latest star in the fresh-faced Olympic sport.

The 18-year-old from Elstead, Surrey took to climbing like a duck to water. 

He rose to senior fame when he became the first Brit to win a lead World Cup medal in 28 years during the 2022 Ratho World Cup.

And Roberts became the first British male climber to secure a place at the Olympics with victory at the European Qualifiers in Laval.

With Paris 2024 on the horizon, here's an insight into the life and journey of Britain's teenage history-maker.

How Toby Roberts became a climber

Roberts' first recorded climb was at just three years old on a family day out, amusing the instructor with his raw talent.

Joining his first climbing club four years later following an after school introductory session, Roberts has had only one question on his mind since then: 'how do I get better?'.

A child prodigy, Roberts became the youngest-ever Brit to climb the 8a Raindogs route at Malham Cove at just 10 years old, obsessed with progressing at both indoor and outdoor climbing.

10 Year Old Toby Roberts Climbs Raindogs 8a for Youngest Ascent - Craggy Island Youth Climbing Team

In fact, he cites his love of trying hard and being at the peak of your physical abilities, that drives towards success.

Roberts is coached by his dad Tristian, with the rapid rise to the top a learning experience for father and son alike.

"I just love the uniqueness of climbing," says Toby. "Nothing's ever the same as each competition is up to the setter's imagination so is so different.

"What really drives me is the act of trying hard and doing insane stuff."

History making wins

Being the last climber of the day is an agonising experience. The long wait, the tension, having no idea how your opponents have done.

But for Roberts, it offers the sweet chance of a fairytale ending.

It was with one final and daring leap that he clipped himself onto the top hold and clinched his first ever lead World Cup title at the Chamonix World Cup in July 2023.

Roberts cites Chamonix as one of his career highlights, beating out some of the best in the world for gold.

His first-ever Word Cup title had come just three weeks earlier with bouldering gold at the Brixen World Cup in Italy, once again the final climber of the day.

Vlogger

Avid followers of Roberts can chart his climbing journey closely on YouTube and Instagram.

The F1 fan has an active social presence, documenting his World Cup contests and answering all the important questions, such as what skin products he uses for recovery!

Spoiler alert: it's Elizabeth Arden.

From training videos to competition breakdowns, Roberts doesn't shy away from any topic when it comes to climbing.

"What really drives me is..." Your Climbing & World Championship Questions Answered & Hard Climbing!

Behind the scenes

One of the unseen parts of climbing is the moment known as 'isolation'.

As one competitor climbs, their opposition are ushered into a room devoid of internet in a bid to stop any cheating. But isolation is also a place to psych out your opponents and prep yourself.

Unable to take a phone or iPad into isolation, you can spot Roberts with his trusty necessities of food, a foam roller, a pack of cards and a fan.

It's a case of 'go big or go fish' during competition for the climber.

2023 European Olympic Qualifier

At Laval 2023, Roberts positioned himself once again as a the final climber of the day.

And he once again made history.

After a strong semi-final performance, the 18-year-old was sat in fourth place following the Boulder final with just the Lead to go in France.

With a table-topping climb, the only climber of the day to reach the top, Roberts soared to a glittering gold and clinched Team GB a historic spot at the Paris 2024 Olympics.

Following his climb, Roberts spoke to Team GB's first-ever sport climber at an Olympic Games, Shauna Coxsey.

He said: "I'm truly lost for words.

"I tried to come to the competition with no expectations and to just enjoy the climbing.

"This is such a big dream for me and it means so much."

The journey to Paris 2024

Sport climbing will return to the Olympics for the second time in Paris, with medals to be won in a new combined format, encompassing Lead and Boulder, with Speed a separate discipline.

For Roberts, the Olympics have been a six-year long journey, mapped out long before the sport was even expected to be contested in France.

Qualification sees the teenager become Team GB's second overall climber at an Olympics Games after Coxsey led the way at Tokyo.

โ€œThe biggest thing that I'm excited for in Paris is just being in the Olympics, being in that environment is going to feel absolutely incredible," he said.

"I've watched the Olympics on TV for years and I can't imagine what it's like being in that environment and climbing in front of these huge crowds.

"Just thinking about it now is almost making my heart race a bit."

Sportsbeat 2023